Carriage Robe (vintage Crazy Daisy): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Crazy Daisy winder or similar daisy loom, King Size (the book describes it as making daisies up to 3 in / 8 cm).
• Worsted (#4) yarn in 4 oz (113 g) skeins: 5 mint green (A) and 1 white (B) = 24 oz (680 g).
• Yardage: not printed. Assuming about 200 yd per 4 oz, which is typical of worsted (an assumption — check your label): A about 1,000 yd (914 m), B about 200 yd (183 m).
• Original hook: HERO No. E aluminum crochet hook.
• 4 yd (4 m) of ½ in (13 mm) satin ribbon.
• Yarn darning needle.
• Hook: Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) and change size to match the gauge.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sc

single crochet

sl st

slip stitch

dc

double crochet

yo

yarn over

cl

cluster

sk

skip

sp

space

st

stitch

sts

stitches

lp

loop

rnd

round

rep

repeat

tog

together

Notes before you start

• Source: "Carriage Robe", "Crazy Daisy" Boutique, Vol. No. 5, Scovill Manufacturing Company (Dritz Division). Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: HERO King Size Crazy Daisy Winder.; 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 oz. Skeins, 5 Mint Green (A) and 1 White (B).; HERO No. E aluminum crochet hook.; Yarn darning needle.; 4 yds ½″ satin ribbon for trim.. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: The "Making the daisies" section is the book's general "To Make Daisies" directions (printed once near the front and referenced by this pattern as "see page 3"); it is transcribed here so the pattern is complete.
• Modernisation note: The Crazy Daisy winder is a 12-spoke flower loom; the book describes the regular winder as making daisies up to 2 in (5 cm) and the King Size winder up to 3 in (8 cm). Any similar daisy loom of the right size can be used.
• Modernisation note: The original is written in US terms; "attach" is written as "join".
• Modernisation note: Corrected an obvious printing error in the second block: the original reads "ch 5, 31 st in sc for 4th picot"; this is written as "sl st in sc".
• Modernisation note: "Repeat rnd 2 for 12 times more" is labelled rnds 3–14; the round numbers are our arithmetic, not printed.
• Modernisation note: The block headings (First block … Fourth block) were grouped under "Joining the blocks"; the steps are unchanged.
• Modernisation note: Check: the second, third and fourth blocks join with ch 3 between the blocks ("ch 3, sl st in sp of first block, ch 3"), while the book's general joining uses ch 2; kept as printed.
• Modernisation note: Check: the size of the finished robe and any gauge are not printed.
• Modernisation note: "Working backwards (counter clockwise)" is kept as printed; in modern terms this edge is worked in the reverse direction, in the manner of reverse single crochet.
• Modernisation note: The book gives skein weights but not yardages; the yardage ranges given are stated assumptions for typical yarns of that weight — check your label.
• Modernisation note: "(see page 3)" is pointed to the "Making the daisies" section on this page.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book gives no year of publication.
• Modernisation note: Metric conversions and the gauge suggestion were added; they are not in the original.

Making the daisies (from the book's general directions)

1. These directions can be used for the regular Crazy Daisy winder and for the King Size Crazy Daisy winder.
2. A: Hold winder in left hand with flat side in palm of hand. Turn knob to release spokes (see illustration A).
3. B: Turn winder over with knob underneath and flat side with spokes extended facing you. Hold winder in left hand. With left thumb hold yarn at center leaving end to extend about 1 in (2.5 cm); with right hand, pass yarn from left to right around spoke No. 1; then across center from right to left around spoke No. 2 directly opposite.
4. Wrap around these 2 spokes once more in the same manner, or as many times as desired (the number of wraps depends upon the thickness of the yarn you will be using).
5. Bring yarn across center and wind from left to right around spoke No. 3; then across center from right to left around spoke No. 4. Wrap around these 2 spokes once more, or as many times as you wrapped around spoke 1 and 2.
6. Bring yarn across center and wind from left to right around spoke No. 5; then across center and from right to left around spoke No. 6. Wrap around these 2 spokes once more or as many times as you wrapped around spoke 1 and 2.
7. Continue in this manner to wrap yarn around 2 spokes directly opposite each other and then passing onto the next 2 spokes until all spokes are wrapped, ending with spoke No. 12. Bring yarn across center and cut leaving 1 in (2.5 cm) extended beyond center (see illustration B). Do not remove from winder.
8. C: Center: Thread tapestry needle with yarn. The side facing you will be the wrong side of the daisy. Fasten at center of wrong side as for embroidery.
9. Insert needle under 4 petals and draw yarn through; bring yarn back over last 3 of the 4 petals; insert needle under these 3 petals plus 1 more, making 4 petals in all; draw yarn through.
10. Continue in this manner to bring yarn back 3 petals and then draw it under 4 petals each time until you have made 13 sts. Be sure to have 13 sts or center will be incomplete.
11. As the center sts are worked, weave around the starting end of daisy for a few sts to fasten it securely. Fasten on wrong side. Cut ends (see illustration C). Turn knob to draw in spokes and release daisy.
12. D: Right side of daisy (see illustration D).